The two most dramatic water features in Baxter State Park. (That’s Little Niagara above. Big Niagara is pictured full page at the front of the chapter.) A large granite outcrop with a narrow notch sends Nesowadnehunk Stream tumbling 22 vertical feet into a broad basin. Downstream a log has washed up against a cedar. You sit on it under low, dense conifer shade with 20 feet of sand beach in front of you, while the pink Katahdin granite and the dark green Nesowadnehunk slash across your frame of view. If your tired feet are working their way up the Appalachian Trail, or if you got a book of poetry for your birthday, Little Niagara has what is positively the best place to relax and reflect.

The main show is downstream at Big Niagara. It’s a two-tier fall, broad at the top, then compressed to half width at midpoint before the water spills into a very large hole interspersed with islands of water worn, granite blocks. The largest island is high enough that it has trees growing there. At the water level pictured above, it was possible to boulder hop to the island and use it as a base camp for an afternoon of river fun.

The main hole is really spectacular. Sixty to 70 feet long. Water is faster and you have to be paddling if you are in it. Little chance of being pulled downstream and getting smashed, but it’s not a lazy bobbing pool. Best seating on the west on almost a half an acre of slabs. In sum, a classic.

Copyright Running Water Publications 2002